Where would we be without the nation’s late-night curry houses? Hungry and fed up, says Jay Rayner
Koconut Grove, City Road, Chester CH1 3AT (01244 325 888).
Meal for two, including drinks and service: £45
The Brewery Tap in Chester has a menu listing things which make me dribble unattractively. They serve their own brawn with warm new potatoes. There’s devilled kidneys on toast, ox tongue with walnuts, grilled mackerel with a caper and parsley butter and roast ham and stout mustard sandwiches. These sound like robust, big-boned dishes for dark nights and winters that don’t quite know when they’ve outstayed their welcome. Starters are all less than a fiver and only one of the mains – a braised beef and ale pie with red cabbage – is more than £10 and, even then, not by much.
The hardest-working people in the British catering business are in late-night local Indians
The dosa is stuffed with spiced potatoes and fried onions. You get a cheery mix of crunch and soothing squish
The sweet dosa is, like various members of the Tory front bench, thick, dense and unyielding
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