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Gaijin Sushi, Birmingham: ‘An utter delight’ – restaurant review | Jay Rayner

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Forget culinary purity, this Polish chef in Birmingham cooks solid Japanese food with grace

Gaijin Sushi, 78 Bristol Street, Birmingham B5 7AH (0121 448 4250). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £60

I think I’m in love, in that sweaty-palmed, unhealthy way; the sort that makes you think you’re going down with the flu. The object of my desire: Ugly Delicious on Netflix, which I have binge watched until images of bronzed and shiny Peking duck, golden-carapaced fried chicken and plump, taut-skinned soupy dumplings were flashing through my tortured mind each night as I drifted off to sleep.

They could call them new-wave tempura, or Japanese fritters, or Keith for all it matters

Slices of sticky grilled eel are blowtorched until the oils begin to run then dribbled with a little more teriyaki sauce

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