Alchemilla, Glasgow: ‘I used every last ounce of willpower to decline seconds’ – restaurant review

This food isn’t intricate or precise. It is not made to be photographed. It is designed to be fabulous to eat

Alchemilla, 1126 Argyle Street, Glasgow G3 8TD (0141 337 6060). Meal for two, including drinks and service, £30-£70

I have located the focaccia of the gods; the loaf of the Italian, high gluten, olive oil-enriched bread against which all others must now be judged. It’s at Alchemilla in Glasgow. You will thank me for this information. Earlier this year I interviewed Francisco Migoya, co-author of the monumental six-volume work Modernist Bread. Migoya told me that focaccia had been one of the hardest loaves to get right. “It has a particular crumb structure,” he told me. He should book a flight from Seattle to Scotland immediately. He won’t be sorry.

There’s a clever space beneath the stairs if you are old, like me, and want to escape the noise