The team behind Ellory is back – with world-class food and joyful service
There were several things that drew me to the all-new Leroy, from the people who once made Ellory. For example, any restaurant that purposefully combusts and begins again with a name like a drunken memory is good by me. “Wheresssh Lerooooooy?” diners might say, searching for this new home of the now-defunct Michelin-starred spot. Also, I love that Ellory won a star, hung about for a couple of years and then suddenly called it a day. Marvellous.
As a person who is paid a salary to widen my arse circumference by eating dinner, I care less and less for Michelin’s baubles. They’re splendid for chefs to receive, I can tell, but by Christ they’re a prat magnet. Who wants to eat dinner surrounded by bores who collect dining anecdotes like they’re Panini football stickers? Hell is 10 courses in a bright room staring into a sterile open kitchen where chefs erect petals into pyramids with tweezers. No, give me a dark, noisy, naughty wine bar with a pleasing menu like Leroy any day. One where no one can tell that I’ve kicked off my shoes, and where the music is loud enough to muffle the sound of me slagging off other food critics.
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