It’s so cutting edge you could slice your arm off on it, but talk about ups and downs…
St Leonards, 70 Leonard Street, London EC2 (020 7739 1291). Meal for two including drinks and service £75-£120.
There is a thin line between “That’s genius” and “What in God’s name were they thinking?” At St Leonards, a new restaurant from chefs Jackson Boxer and Andrew Clarke of Brunswick House in Vauxhall, they walk both sides of that line. If what you want from a restaurant is food as a centrepiece to your conversation which will entice you to thumb the picture button on your smartphone repeatedly so you’ve got something to show your dreadful friends, St Leonards is for you. If what you want is a relaxing dinner, over unchallenging food – if, say, you’re the kind of person who thinks tuna bone caramel is a prog rock band from Sunderland circa 1975, rather than a viable menu option – please stay away. This restaurant will not make you happy.
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