Trapped in London’s Bermuda Triangle of food, our hungry critic finds that six experimental dishes are not enough ...
Some restaurants provoke an existential crisis. Yes, I know it’s just dinner. But dinner is my job, and some evenings remind me I could be running a cat orphanage in Udaipur, or something useful.
Rather than, say, visiting a restaurant that serves tiny tastes of “bitter herbs, parmesan, anchovy”. Plus, exactly 15 other teensy dishes such as “halibut with elderflower” or “squid with sandalwood”. Each concoction offputting, but hewn to test boundaries. Each reminiscent of something an antihero in a Bret Easton Ellis novel would order.
Continue reading...