Fiery Portuguese cuisine in Southwark takes Jay back to the Algarve – and a general strike
Casa do Frango, 32 Southwark Street, London SE1 1TU (020 3972 2323). Starters and sides £4-£10, chicken £9, desserts £3-£5, wine from £20 a bottle
In the summer of 1978, while my family was on holiday at an all-inclusive hotel in the Algarve, the Portuguese government fell and a day’s general strike was declared. The hotel staff walked out, leaving the family who owned the place in charge. This had no impact, apart from on the food. It improved hugely. Usually we got some weird version of Anglo-continental. There really was something on the menu called Brown Windsor soup. You looked into its depths and saw your depraved soul reflected back at you. Grapefruit came grilled with brown sugar, and meats were tortured by coagulating mushroom sauces.
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