The brilliant chef’s new Fitzrovia venue is a radical swerve – in a thrilling direction
59 Wells Street, London W1A 3AE (020 3963 8270). Small plates £6-£14.50, big plates £12.50-£20.50, desserts £6-£9, wines from £30
I remember the betrayal as if it were yesterday when, in truth, it was a Thursday evening in July 1981: Top of the Pops night. I had taken up position in front of the television, the loyal sentry, ready for the most important event since, well, whatever the last one was: the new Spandau Ballet single. I had thought To Cut a Long Story Short not merely a cracking electro dance tune, but a cultural artefact of great importance. It involved tartan worn unironically, raging drums and huge declarative vocals. Listening to it made me feel serious. Musclebound was even better. Grease me up and send me out on to the Mongolian plain. I had seen the future and its name was Spandau Ballet.
The price tag feels enthusiastic but we’re in Fitzrovia, my loves. That isn’t going to pay for itself
The headline on this article was amended on 30 September 2018 December
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