With the skills he gained under Nathan Outlaw, Cornerstone chef Tom Brown’s fish-only menu is a classic in the making
The menu at Cornerstone, Tom Brown’s restaurant in Hackney Wick, east London, is bracingly concise: eight savoury dishes, three puddings, a plate of blue cheese. But still, it deserves some proper attention. What to make of the pickled oysters with horseradish, the brill in roast chicken butter sauce? And what about the potted shrimp crumpet with kohlrabi, gherkin and parsley? Delicious as the latter sounds – on a menu that changes every day, this dish is one of only two constants – it might almost have been lifted straight from the pages of a satirical novel. Where I come from (and perhaps where you do, too), crumpets require only butter and, if you insist, a smear of strawberry jam.
I’ll tell you what drives me mad: meringue shards. That’s why we have pavlova
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