Clam & Cork, Doncaster: ‘Doing lovely things’ – restaurant review

In the heart of the Doncaster market, a friendly stall selling the finest fish dishes

Clam & Cork, 2 Fish Market, Doncaster DN1 1NJ (07912 687581). All dishes £6.50-£11.95. Wines from £16

Twenty-five years ago, when my time was cheap and work scarce, I spent three days as a reporter in the old Bull Ring Market in Birmingham. The built, scuffed, graffiti-strewn, urine-splashed environment was due for demolition to make way for the glossy city centre that now occupies the space. Few were prepared to mourn the grey concrete sprawl, with its shadowed underpasses, but it housed a unique retail culture that deserved to be recorded before it went. I was sent to do the recording.

Dishes just get handed straight out of the kitchen to the diner by the nearest chef