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Röski, Liverpool: ‘Use any excuse to eat here’ – restaurant review

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Chocolate soil, Marmite butter, tree trunk plates… It may sound odd, but Röski is note perfect

Röski, 16 Rodney Street, Liverpool L1 2TE (0151 7 088 698). A la carte £45 for three courses. Tasting menu £75. Wines from £23

Do you have a birthday coming up that needs celebrating? No? How about a wedding anniversary? Or your parents’ wedding anniversary? Doesn’t matter if they’re dead. An anniversary is an anniversary. It needs marking. You don’t have one of those? Perhaps a pet’s birthday? Or, I dunno, it’s happy Thursday. Just find something worth celebrating, even if it’s merely the gruelling business of being alive, and use it as the excuse to go and eat at Röski in Liverpool. You’ll thank me. More to the point, you’ll thank chef Anton Piotrowski.

There is a place for complicated, if you know what you’re doing

Lemon sole is, like me, both meaty but, at the same time, strangely delicate

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