A rare find; an unpretentious labour of love, with something to suit everyone.
Watch Grace and Yotam Ottolenghi’s Christmas lunch video here.
On the train home from The Folkestone Wine Company, I decided that one Christmas I will pen a niche toilet book (potential audience: me) that denotes the emotions of restaurant critics for which we do not have words. Think The Meaning of Liff, but written by a woman in danger of gout.
A Boswell Glop, for example, is a restaurant that makes you angrier and hungrier in 11 incremental, foam-festooned courses. Findango’s Reach is a terrible, mega-hyped wonder-restaurant that exists only in the hyperbole of its marketing intern. And a Snuffly-Ligget is a place so imperfectly perfect – just like The Folkestone Wine Company – that I want to ditch the review to protect it from idiots.
Grace Dent’s restaurant reviews appear in the award-winning food magazine Feast, along with recipes by Yotam Ottolenghi and more top cooks, with the Guardian every Saturday.
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