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Restaurant 92, Harrogate: ‘Takes admirable risks’ – restaurant review

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Talented young chef Michael Carr’s cooking could warm your heart. If only his dining room wasn’t so chilly…

Restaurant 92, 92 Station Parade, Harrogate HG1 1HQ (01423 503 027). A la carte (three courses) £55. Limited lunch menu (three courses) £24. Tasting menu £65. Wines from £23

A brutally cold winter’s day in Harrogate or, as it’s known in Yorkshire at this time of year, a Friday. My train has been delayed. We have called ahead to explain why we will be 30 minutes late but no matter, we are here now. We are ready for lunch. The question is, when will it begin? And will I ever thaw out?

Yorkshire rabbit and carrots is Carr’s cooking at its prettiest best, whimsical but unembarrassed about huge flavours

‘Scallops from Orkney with sriracha sauce would be thrilling, were it not for the extra 45 seconds spent in the hot pan’

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