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Cantor’s Food Store, Chorlton: ‘It’s all very Ottolenghi with a Manc accent’ – restaurant review

Cantor’s boasts quirky cocktails and live music, but it’s the food that will make you feel happy

Cantor’s Food Store, 72-74 Manchester Road, Chorlton, Manchester M21 9PQ (0161 862 0000). Sandwiches, main plates and pizzas £5.95-£13. Desserts £4. Wines from £16.80

Mr and Mrs Cantor exhibited either a great love for early cinema or a highly developed sense of humour when they named their son. The Eddy Cantor behind Cantor’s Food Store in Chorlton, the Manchester suburb that hasn’t met a progressive cause it didn’t like, lacks the original’s brilliantined hair or goggle eyes. In photographs the modern one looks dark and brooding and very severely bearded. He does a great stare into the middle distance, full of longing and insight, as befits a man who almost made it in the music business, or who apparently once played a Greek fisherman in a Boots ad. Back in the day he was the resident cook on the Big Breakfast. He has lived many lives, has this Eddy Cantor.

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