Own-baked bread and cultured butter are very 2018 – and put Lino among my top places of the year
90 Bartholomew Close, London EC1A 7EB (linolondon.co.uk) Small plates £7 to £10; £14 - £19; desserts £6.50; wines from £24
Doing something genuinely new in a restless city is tricky. It’s not obvious how much sharper you can be when everyone around you is trying to be so cutting edge you could slice your finger open on them. Newly opened Lino, housed in a former linoleum factory south of London’s Smithfield meat market, says it offers a “new approach” to eating out. “We re-use, re-love and re-imagine.” Bravo. I’m a big fan of re-loving. I’ve been re-loving myself for years, because what I get up to in my spare time is entirely my own affair. But what exactly does that mean in the context of a restaurant?
Roasted celeriac is bathed in a huge, sticky chicken jus
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