The Guardian’s restaurant critic explains how a hot date nearly ruined naan for her, how she balances her career with veganism, and what she would choose as her desert island dish
How did you start writing about food?
My first review was in about 1998 for Marie Claire magazine. The restaurant is still there and I loved it. I wanted to write about food and have a column from that point but they’re not the kind of jobs you come across easily. You have to pretty much wait for someone to die or give up because they’ve got gout. People carry on as long as they can because it’s the greatest job in the world. Before I started reviewing for the London Evening Standard in 2012, I spent years wanting to be a critic so that I could purge all the things in my head about bad restaurants and good restaurants, but mainly bad ones.
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