This new place down on the docks comes highly recommended, the chefs are expert, the fish impeccably sourced. Only one thing is wrong…
The Fishmarket, 23A Pier Place, Newhaven, Edinburgh EH6 4LP (0131 552 8262). Starters £7-£11. Mains £7-£36 (the latter for a whole lobster). Desserts £5. Wines from £17
There is, in my head, an alternative geography of Britain. It’s not built around the triumphalism of grand museums or cathedrals, but something much more encouraging: the places that have fed me well. If I imagine myself in York, I’m at a table in Skosh, spooning away at an egg filled with whipped egg whites and cream and toasted cheddar and a mushroom duxelles. In Manchester, I want to be at Albert’s Schloss, with the slow-roasted pork knuckle and the drag queens, probably in that order. In Gateshead, I want to be at Träkol, sucking the black-bean sauce off the sweetest of clams. The mental map is marked out in trails of knives and forks leading to plates piled with good taste.
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