Matt Healy The Foundry, Leeds: ‘Food to swear by’ – restaurant review

From cheese toasties to shredded cabbage, Matt Healy shows there is an art to keeping it simple

Matt Healy X The Foundry, 1 Saw Mill Yard, Leeds LS11 5WH (0113 245 0390). Snacks and small plates £3.50-£9. Large plates £18.50-£29.50. Desserts £7. Wines from £20

You wait ages for a toasted cheese sandwich to come along and then three turn up at once. The first was last week, courtesy of the Cheesy Toast Shack in St Andrews where flaked Arbroath Smokie danced off merrily with mature cheddar, amid the tight embrace of quality sourdough. The second was at Owt (“anything” in Yorkshire-ese, but then you knew that). It’s a compact, daytime food outlet inside the Kirkgate in Leeds, the Victorian covered hall from which I used to sustain myself as a student, on a carefully balanced diet of bacon baps.