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Ashburn SW7, South Kensington: ‘A dirty stain on its postcode’ | Jay Rayner

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Thinking of grabbing a meal at this airport hotel? Be prepared for a very bumpy ride…

Ashburn SW7, Inside the Holiday Inn, 97 Cromwell Road, London SW7 4DN (0871 942 9100). Starters £6-£14; mains £13-£23.50; desserts £6.95; wines from £24.50

I receive an email. It says: “Hi Jay. Hope you are well. We have opened our new restaurant Ashburn SW7 in our hotel recently and was wondering if someone from your food review team would be interested in a dining experience to do a review of our offerings and facilities.” My eye scans down to the bottom. It’s from the development chef of the Holiday Inn on London’s Cromwell Road.

A kitchen completely incapable of executing the menu written for it

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