Bob Bob Cité, London EC3: ‘Love it or loathe it, you can’t ignore it’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent

This flamboyant opening in the City of London offers boisterous, if bank-account-draining, fun

For a long time – years, in fact – Bob Bob Cité sat on my “It’ll never happen” list, along with other planned restaurants too preposterous to exist. Every time it slipped down the schedule, after yet more delays to this £25m refit, I had a touch of the Statler and Waldorfs.

Owner Leonid Shutov’s plan was to commandeer level three of the £225m Leadenhall Building – or the Cheesegrater as it is unaffectionately called by Londoners who powerlessly acquiesce to these cute nicknames for hideous skyscrapers. Shutov would create a bigger, better, kookier, mid-air version of his firstborn, Soho’s Bob Bob Ricard.