Grazing by Mark Greenaway, Edinburgh: ‘Clever but gutsy food' – restaurant review

Delicious cooking means the last thing you’ll do here is graze

Grazing by Mark Greenaway, Waldorf Astoria Hotel, Princes Street, Edinburgh EH1 2AB (0131 222 8857). Starters £9.50-£11; mains £25-£29; desserts £9.50; wines from £25

Repetition leads, inevitably, to expectation. I have sat at so many tables, being told so often that this particular establishment has a whole small sharing plate thing going on, as if they’d decided to make wheels round rather than irritatingly square, that I now assume this is what a restaurant meal is: a parade of small things, which diners must fight over passive-aggressively, in a desperate attempt to get an equal cut.

This is a serious, sweetly traditional restaurant, serving very clever but still gutsy food at significant prices

The winner among desserts is a brown sugar cheesecake with a florentine base