Cheese and wine melt together at this Swiss restaurant, but the prices are a bit of a raclette
Heritage, 18-20 Rupert Street, London W1D 6DF (020 3995 7500). Starters £9-£21; mains £23-£50; desserts £8-£14; wines from £30
Sweeping generalisations about countries are risky, but I’m willing to chance it with Switzerland: it’s expensive, tooth-achingly polite, efficient and profoundly committed to dairy fats. Heritage, a new Swiss-inspired restaurant, lovingly crafted from wood, leather and weapons-grade cholesterol, manages three out of the four, though the lack of efficiency wasn’t their fault. Shortly after the starters had been cleared, we were approached by the restaurant’s owner. We’d already escalated from the humble waiter who served my companions before I arrived, to the restaurant’s manager when I got there. Now we had the boss.
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