The story behind Nandine is vivid and compelling – and the vibrant Kurdish dishes follow suit…
Nandine, 45 Camberwell Church Street, London SE5 8TR (nandineuk@gmail.com for bookings). All dishes £4-£12; wines from £24
The best restaurants have a cracking narrative at their heart; a story that nourishes the soul as well as the belly. The narrative behind the newly opened Nandine in Camberwell, south London, is utterly compelling. It is what us old hacks call a good yarn. The headlines are strong enough: Nandine is a simple café, all plywood and painted brick walls, knocking out huge plates of big-flavoured Kurdish food at the sort of prices that restore your faith not just in eating out, but quite possibly in humanity in general. Every plate is a vivid rush of saturated tones, worthy of Technicolor in its pomp. Colours like that promise flavour; the promise is not broken.
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