OKN1, London: ‘These students are our future’ – restaurant review

The young learners working the kitchen at Hoxton’s OKN1 could teach seasoned pros a thing or two

OKN1, 40 Hoxton Street, London N1 6LR (020 7613 9590). Starters £6.50-£8, main courses £11-£15, desserts £3-£6, wines from £22

Few people would describe the building at 40 Hoxton Street as a glamorous landmark, probably not even the architect’s mother. It is a block of yellow brick, with a few glacial cliffs of glass so the light can get in. There are vaguely interesting spindly design features put there, I think, to stop it looking too much like a correctional facility. It is a building with a purpose for which it is fit. So no, not a landmark. Instead, a beacon of hope.

They will sate your appetite very nicely, with dishes which combine blessed familiarity with faultless execution