Searingly good food, flames and fair prices at an east London brewery make one old man very happy
Lagom at Hackney Church Brew Co, 16-17 Bohemia Place, London E8 1DU (020 8986 2643). Small plates £1.50-£8, large plates £9-£29 (for whole chicken), wines from £25, beers around £5 a pint
Down a shadowed road an old man shambles. He’s wearing a secondhand pinstripe jacket and sensible shoes with cushioned soles. Pools of buttercup-yellow light spread from reconditioned railway arches, illuminating the uncreased faces of the Friday-night crew outside, bottles of the finest local microbrew in hand. Music booms. There’s a cavernous bar gilded in red neon with the legend Night Tales. Broad-shouldered bouncers stand sentry, thumbing their phones. The old man shuffles past, aware it’s not for him.
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