London’s grand Goring Hotel has taken a less stuffy turn with the arrival of a Nathan Outlaw fish restaurant, complete with a menu that’s more than a match for the majestic setting
The Goring Hotel, near Buckingham Palace, has plodded on majestically for the past 109 years without doing anything as gauche as touting a new restaurant. The arrival of Siren, a fish restaurant by the Cornish chef Nathan Outlaw, was therefore something of a surprise. Surely this would only attract, well, the public? (Please read “the public” in the manner of Downton Abbey’s dowager countess discovering “the weekend”.)
Forgive my pearl-clutching, but the Goring has enjoyed a century of discreetly hosting minor aristocrats, anglophile Manhattan elite and royal wedding guest overspill. Then, bang, Nathan Outlaw is here. Him off the telly with a name that suggests he ought to be waving a cutlass in the 4pm pirate show at the Treasure Island Hotel in Las Vegas.
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