Lots of swagger and style in evidence at this Spanish restaurant on a mission to take you on an culinary journey
Pilgrim in Liverpool made me smile many months before I’d booked a table. My job, if you’re willing to call it one, is not merely to consume food, but also to spend hours hearing about the concepts behind each restaurant. This is where I earn my money: deciphering the arduous Vogon poetics on websites about seasonal produce, the chef’s old nonna, or complete curveballs such as: “You thought you liked cheese... but have you ever tried it delivered on a sushi conveyor belt?” That’s a real thing, by the way, called Pick & Cheese, in Covent Garden.
Anyhow, the men behind Pilgrim take concept to a higher, more godly level, basing their restaurant around the pilgrimage routes towards Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of St James were found in the ninth century. Or, more specifically, the Camino del Norte route, which is 825km of rugged coastline between Irun, outside San Sebastian, turning inland at Ribadeo in the Galician hills to Santiago.
Duke Street Market is definitely fun. Noisy fun ....
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