Some of the small plates here are lovely, others merely baffling
Merienda, 30 North West Circus Place, Edinburgh EH3 6TP (0103 220 2020). All savoury dishes £5.90-£9.50, desserts £7, wines from £26
There is a strain within postwar modern sculpture that, like the male ego, is dependent for its impact on enlargement. The small and banal is rendered otherworldly and apparently interesting simply by dint of having been expanded to something far beyond the expected. Think Jeff Koons’s shiny, polished balloon animals, inflated to elephantine size, or the 70m-long pink knitted rabbit, seemingly dropped on to a hillside by the Austrian art collective Gelitin, as if the discarded toy of some unimaginably giant child.
As each tiny plateful arrives, I push my reading glasses up my nose and peer down, as if examining a rare jewel
Continue reading...