Shibden Mill Inn, near Halifax: ‘Brave enough to be more than just another food pub’ – restaurant review

There’s the fierce tang of ambition here, an early contender for snack of the year, and other acts of subversion

Shibden Mill Inn, Shibden Mill Fold, Halifax (01422 365 840). Nibbles £4–£6; starters £6–£12; mains £14–£23; desserts £7–£9. Wines from £19 a bottle. Extensive gin and whisky selection

There are many kinds of brave. Rescuing families from advancing Australian bush fires is definitely brave, as is calling out predatory men in the movie business for sexual harassment. Me, on a beach, in a tight-fitting pair of Speedos might also be described as brave, though in that instance what the word really means is: “There are things that once seen, cannot be unseen.” Bravery is about context. The bravery described in a gravy-slicked restaurant column, is unlikely to stand up well against, say, that of a man who decides a narwhal tusk will do as a defensive weapon against a homicidal maniac. But that doesn’t stop it being its own kind of brave.