Chinese restaurants need your custom – no hard thing to give when the food is this good
Four Seasons, 12 Gerrard Street, London W1D 5PR (020 7494 0870). Starters £3.20-£12.80, roast duck portion £11.40, half £14.40, mains £9.30-£20.50, wines from £17.80, beers £4.50
It’s after dinner that we really notice it. London’s Gerrard Street on a Saturday night is usually the restaurant equivalent of a mosh pit: a heaving crowd of hungry people, the scent of scorched wok in their nostrils, and the reflection of the bronzed and shiny roast ducks that crowd the windows of Chinatown’s main drag in their eyeballs. Tonight, there was a pre-cinema rush, which we got caught up in. But now it’s gone 9pm. The pedestrianised street is sparsely populated and through the picture windows, chairs and tables sit forlorn and empty. I’ve never seen it like this before.
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