Davies and Brook, London: 'Some show-stopping dishes’ – restaurant review

Cooking that swings from the admirable to the impressive, but all at Mayfair prices

Davies and Brook, Claridge’s, Brook Street, London W1K 4HR (020 7107 8848). Four course à la carte: £98, wines from £38

Complaining about the prices being too high at Claridge’s is like moaning about the Pope being too religious or Rory Stewart being too annoying. It literally comes with the territory, that territory being a corner in London’s Mayfair. So let’s acknowledge that four courses at Davies and Brook, named after the two streets upon which it sits, costs £98 and move on. It’s what happens when one of London’s grandest hotels imports one of New York’s most garlanded chefs.