Farmyard, Norwich: ‘For the most part, it works’ – restaurant review

They do drop a few catches here, but the commendable ambition makes it all worthwhile

Farmyard, 23 St Benedicts Street, Norwich NR2 4PF (01603 733 188). Snacks £3.50, starters £7-£9, mains £13-£26, desserts £7, wines from £19.50

Farmyard in Norwich is the kind of restaurant that brings out the maternal in me. Reading the menu makes me feel like one of those parents standing in the wings during the auditions for Britain’s Got Talent, watching my kids, Ant and Dec’s hands lightly on my shoulders for moral support. I am desperate for the kitchen to succeed. I want to hug them all to my bosom and tell them everything will be OK. I’m also terrified they’ll drop the catch.

It is for restaurant goers who are happy to give the kitchen permission to try just a little harder