In the international restaurant scene, London is now a match for New York, but this Korean restaurant is setting the pace
Haenyeo, 239 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, New York (001 718 213 2290). Small plates $10-$15; large plates $18-$34; desserts $9; wines from $42
A couple of weeks ago, at a jaunty restaurant called Quality Eats on East 28th Street in Manhattan, I was served an outrageous dish of thick-cut sweet-cure bacon on a savoury puddle of crunchy peanut butter, with a spiky jalapeño jelly and diced cucumber. It felt like a take on a breadless peanut butter and jelly sandwich. With added bacon, always a good idea. It also felt like culinary self-parody – a big, bold, edible New York joke. If any British chef would like to nick this joke, I’d be grateful because I’d like to laugh at it again.
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