Waterside Bistro, Shipley: ‘a much missed old friend’ – restaurant review

A long-overdue lunch at Paul Huddlestone’s place in Yorkshire felt like coming home

Waterside Bistro and Bar, Wharf Street, Shipley BD17 7DW (01274 594 444). Starters £5.50-£8.50, mains £17-£29, desserts £7.50, wines from £18

Some of the best journeys bring you right back home. Paul Huddleston has been on exactly that journey. For a few years he cooked at the Criterion, when Marco Pierre White had the lease on London’s most outrageous room, and used it to make chicken kiev sexy. Afterwards he went to Paris to cook at another landmark, Le Jules Verne, perched on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower, where it could look down on all the other restaurants. Superstar chef Alain Ducasse was in charge then and he liked to dispatch his brigades off on stints at his other outposts. Huddleston went to the Michelin three-star Louis XV in Monaco, where the dining room groans with pendulous chandeliers and the glint and shimmer of the Mediterranean is part of the deal.

I've had emails from customers who were simply delighted that a place they loved was reopening

This article was amended on 27 July 2020 to correct the restaurant’s telephone number