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Turnips, London: ‘A clever response to challenging times’ – restaurant review

The pandemic has brought a silver lining to one Borough Market trader – he’s opened a restaurant

Turnips, 43 Borough Market, London SE1 9AH (020 7357 8356). Small plates (Wednesday-Saturday) £5-£9, wines from £33, tasting menu (Thursday-Saturday) £65

Fred Foster always dreamed of having a restaurant. He’d supplied fruit and veg to some of the grandest places in London: to the Dorchester and Le Gavroche, and to the great Nico Ladenis in his pomp. It was the logical step. In the end it took a pandemic to make it a reality. “If it hadn’t been for lockdown, we wouldn’t have had a chance to work alongside so many chefs,” Fred told me, when I spoke to him a few days after eating at his pop-up, carved out of the enclosure which, during the day, houses his produce company, Turnips. “That’s how this happened.”

If it hadn’t been for lockdown, we wouldn’t have had a chance to work alongside so many chefs

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