Only a week old, this Indian restaurant in Manchester has big ambitions and lots of confidence
Delhi House Cafe, Unit 10, Corn Exchange, Manchester M4 3TR (0161 834 3333). Small plates £4.95-£9.50, large plates £6.95-£15.95, desserts £3.95-£5.50, wines from £18.75
On one wall at the newly opened Delhi House Cafe, inside Manchester’s Corn Exchange, is a set of portraits: a man in a red turban with a magnificent moustache of a sort songbirds could perch upon; a more humble chap in a vest pushing a tray of oven-inflated breads towards the lens; a young woman in chefs’ whites, grinning; an older woman in a more domestic kitchen getting the job done.
Proudly, they announce that they don't serve poppadoms
My doubts are over two deep-fried offerings, both of which feel like a failure of nerve
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