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Wen’s, Leeds: ‘Dumplings in gossamer skins’ – restaurant review

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A Chinese family has taken a favourite old venue in thrilling new directions

Editor’s note: we have decided that, while restaurants remain open, we will continue to review them

Wen’s, 72-74 North Street, Leeds LS2 7PN (0113 244 4408). Small plates £4.40-£8.80, mains £8.90-£15.80, desserts £3.80-£4.20, beers £3.50, wines from £17

They can cook you pretty much any Anglo-Cantonese classic here

Thin slices of pork have been battered and deep-fried then drenched in caramel, we can hear it fizzing and crackling

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