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Daffodil Mulligan, London: ‘A certain optimism’ – restaurant review

Three Irishmen have brought life, hope and plenty of great meat to Old Street

Editor’s note: we have decided that, while restaurants remain open, we will continue to review them

Daffodil Mulligan, 70-74 City Road, London EC1Y 2BJ (020 7404 3000). Small plates £6-£14, large plates £17-£32, desserts £4-£6, wines from £23

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