The Elder, Bath: ‘A brilliant beam of sunshine’ – restaurant review

This bravely newly opened restaurant offers a show of giddy optimism and engrossing food

Editor’s note: this review took place before the current lockdown was imposed

The Elder at the Indigo Hotel, 2-8 South Parade, Bath BA2 4AB (01225 530 616). Three dinner courses £45, three lunch courses £35, two dinner courses £37.50, two lunch courses £27.50, wines from £25