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Boxing clever: Britain’s top chefs reinvent fine dining at home

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Restaurants stay afloat and customers enjoy haute cuisine delivered to the door: a passing fad, or will it endure post-Covid?

Last May Gary Usher was in a “pretty dark place”. His award-winning restaurants in the north-west of England had been closed for a couple of months and, he said, “I had pretty much given up. I was ready to go bankrupt”.

By the end of the summer, top chef Adam Handling had lost four out of his 10 restaurants in London. “I had bills spilling in that I couldn’t afford to pay. It was heartbreaking,” he said.

Related: Northcote at Home: ‘Am I a fan? Yes’ – restaurant review

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