Only Food and Courses, London: ‘Deserves to be taken seriously’ – restaurant review

The Del Boy pun is a laugh, but there’s real intent behind the cooking at this Brixton venture

Only Food and Courses, Pop Brixton, 49 Station Road, London SW9 8PQ (onlyfoodandcourses.co.uk). Starters £10, mains £14, desserts £10, wines from £24

On the wall of the space housing this week’s restaurant is a sign which reads: “A brilliantly cheeky twist on classic British food.” There is a lot to unpack here, not least the second word; I’ll be the judge of that and so on. Even before you get to that sign, you have to confront the name of the restaurant. It’s called Only Food and Courses. That’s boss-level punnery right there, but just about excusable, I think. The restaurant is located inside Pop Brixton, the loose-limbed food-and-drink market built out of converted shipping containers that is only a couple of miles from Peckham, the setting for John Sullivan’s sitcom Only Fools and Horses. Geddit? Sure you do.