It costs an attention-grabbing £13, but this toastie is a thing of wonder
The Wigmore, 15 Langham Place, London W1B 3DE (020 7965 0198). Toastie £13, snacks £5.50-£7.75, mains £14-£16, dessert £5, beers from £5 a pint, wines from £28.50
Happiness is a well-made cheese toastie. The XXL Stove Top 3 Cheese Toastie with mustard at the Wigmore in London is so much more than that. It is bliss. It is a beautifully engineered, lusciously executed, burnished and bronzed tribute to the carnal love affair between toast and cheese. It was not what I expected. The Wigmore, which opened in 2017, is a pub as imagined by Michel Roux Jr of Le Gavroche, a temple to French classicism, where the devoutly greedy go to worship the gods of butter, cream and demi-glace. Le Gavroche is a kind of French embassy, only with better catering.
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