Inside the test kitchens where restaurants cook up new dishes

From Michelin-star meals to fast food and no-fail family recipes, chances are your favourite dish was developed in a test kitchen. Meet the chefs who transform ideas into dinner

In Cartmel in rural Cumbria, Simon Rogan works in splendid isolation. The owner of L’Enclume, which won its third Michelin star in February, spends little time on social media, seldom talks to other chefs and rarely eats out. As he puts it: “We’ve a long-standing, unique style I don’t want infiltrated by other things.”