NoMad London: ‘What price, beautiful food?’: restaurant review

NoMad London, 28 Bow Street, London WC2E 7AW (020 3906 1600). Snacks and starters £9-£30, mains £27-£49, desserts £14, wines from £38

Welcome to wonderland. Or perhaps, to be more precise, AdLand. For here at NoMad London, everything is art-directed to within an inch of its life. The public rooms are beautiful. The food is beautiful. Therefore, I too must be beautiful. There is handpainted wallpaper and dark wood and velvet plush and oxblood leather and acres of marble. The shelves in the library upstairs are filled with real books, of a sort you might want to read. They are an expression of literary taste, rather than something bought by the metre. The conversion of what was, until 2006, the Bow Street Magistrates Court where Oscar Wilde was once held, is magnificent.