This month we have full English breakfasts, chefs cooking with their kids, and recipes for summer puddings
The kitchen is starting to smell deeply of crisping pig and newly fried chips. It smells of all the good, domestic things,” writes Jay Rayner of the Hope cafe on Holloway Road in north London. Open since 1937, its regulars come for their breakfasts including bubble and squeak and the famed No 5 – egg, bacon, sausage, chips, a fried slice, beans or tomato and a cup of tea or coffee, all for £6.40. Jay spends a day with the Hope’s longstanding proprietors, Chris and Sue, tucks into breakfast and lunch and meets some of the regular customers – builders, football supporters and local workers who will miss its passing; it’s up for sale. “This job does your hands in and your knees,” says Sue.
We also have a story about chefs and their kids. Tony Naylor has met up with the children of some of the country’s busiest chefs, who share what it is like to be part of the family of people working day in day out in the kitchen. “For the whole holiday, [we ate] barbecue every single day, driving hours to random spots,” says 15-year-old Lucy, who has grown up in the family business. Eight-year-old Ernie has been helping his mum, Nina, with her work at The Black Bull, Sedbergh, since he was two. He would pretend to chop vegetables, separate red and yellow tomatoes or, says his chef and baker mum, “fold bread, something physical he could get messy with”.
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