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Musu, Manchester: ‘Gigantically ambitious and pointedly bonkers’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

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Minuscule portions of exquisite pleasure that linger in your mind

Musu is very possibly the most expensive restaurant in Manchester. Freshly opened with a £3m-plus fit-out, it resembles nothing so much as the Starship Enterprise, albeit one with geishas on the walls and a £110 seven-course menu (or £150 for 11) cooked by Michael Shaw, formerly of Gordon Ramsay Inc and Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons.

Abandon reading this review here, all who have already taken terrible umbrage that Musu even exists. Personally, I am rather cheered that there are still people north of Watford who have the faith and gumption to open places as pointedly bonkers as this. Musu is a gigantically ambitious project serving what its owners hope to be the highest-quality contemporary Japanese food in a city that is already pretty well favoured with good and reasonably pan-Asian dining choices of every kind.

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