They say you can’t revisit past times, but at this much-loved old haunt, it’s not quite true
The Kolossi/Attica, 50-60 Rosebery Avenue, London EC1R 4RR. Small plates, starters £3.80-£9.80, larger dishes £15.80-£21.50, desserts £7.50, wines from £27
Let’s pull back the velvet curtain on this restaurant reviewing lark. Because readers of the Observer and our daily sibling, the Guardian, would be unimpressed if both myself and the saintly Grace Dent reviewed the same restaurants, we quietly co-ordinate what we are going to write about. I let a Guardian colleague know where I’m planning to go and they return the compliment. Mostly these emails contain just the name of a restaurant from one side and a reply with the single word “yours” from the other.
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