Andalucía is known for sea, sun and even tapas but not, so far, its fine restaurants. Now it's hoping to take on the gastronomic powerhouses of Catalonia and the Basque Country. Chris Moss reports from Málaga
'Today you're going to eat food that will make you cry!" shouted Fernando Rueda by way of introduction. I was buckling my seatbelt. I don't think I'd even offered my hand or my name. He was shouting because Málaga's late-morning traffic was loud, and because he liked shouting. "It will take you back to your grandma, and her house, and her kitchen," he said. "Welcome to the white magic of Andalucían gastronomy!"
Fernando is a food historian and sociologist, author of a 12-volume guide to Málaga's cuisine, and head of Gastroarte, a union of 30-odd chefs and producers created in 2012 to celebrate Andalucía's food.
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