This is the kind of review that gives me no pleasure at all. All I want to do is bring you good news, in my wake a twinkly trail of restaurant fairy dust. I spend way too many hours on the likes of Twitter and the industry press trying to winkle out the interesting, excellent and, God help me, fun. Believe me, I don't just poke a pin in a map going, "Let's stick it to them this week."
Hence Shears Yard in Leeds. It looks the absolute business: cool setting, a former canvas and ropeworks (previously Livebait) in the Calls' buzzing restaurant row; menu full of edgy elements that wink "We've been around, you know" pea custard, trout crackling, seaweed butter, savoury granola. Good pedigree: it's sibling to the popular Art's Cafe. And then there's the swooning internet reviews and Best Newcomer awards. Tick, tick, tick.
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