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Whatever happened to the British food revival?

A few years ago, modern British food was on the up. Now we're eating American and south Asian, and the high street is still full of Italian, Japanese and Mexican chains. What went wrong?

What happened to that great revolution in British cooking we all heard so much about a few years ago? There has been an invasion of pimped-up American fast food, trendy pulled pork baps, south Asian street food, kimchi with everything, Peruvian, Nordic, New Mexican the next wave is always around the corner, and always from a different part of the globe.

"If you try to open British, you'll be elbowed out of the high street," says Trevor Gulliver, the co-founder of St John in Clerkenwell, London. With its offal-oriented dishes, this British-centric restaurant, which opened its doors in the early 90s, is probably the inspiration behind every pub that attempts to cook ox heart. "The people opening restaurants aren't foodies, they are businessmen," he continues. "To create a good British restaurant will take about two to three years to find your groove. That kind of commitment is bonkers these days, as people just want an instant franchise."

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